Wednesday, October 19, 2005

PRIMITIVE SNOWBALLS

SNOWBALLS


Supplies:
Foam Balls (any size you want)
Joint Compound (Can be found at Walmart over in the hardware section)
Mica Flakes, Glass Glitter or regular glitter
ModgePodge

I grew up in Florida and now live in North Carolina-I prefer these kinda snowballs to the real thing anyday!!

There are a few ways to do this...
*You can roll the balls in the mica/glitter while the joint compound is still wet...I'd wait until the compound "sets up" a bit before trying it that way tho!
*You can skip the joint compound and just use modge podge and roll the ball in the mica.

This is the way that I do them...
-SQUEEZE your foam balls or roll them on the counter to "compact" them-you don't HAVE to do this but I like to get my stress out!! HA HA!
-Open your joint compound and STIR STIR STIR! Get your hands dirty...use your hands and fingers to press the compound onto the foam-doesn't have to be even or "pretty"! A little tip is to let the joint compound sit for a little while to harden a bit-maybe 30 minutes. It can be pretty slushy otherwise. I just set the balls on some aluminum foil on my counter.


-Let dry overnight.

-You can elect to sand them a bit or use them as is!...In the pic you can see the difference in them.Use 150 grit sandpaper and sand them lightly. My suggestion is to dampen your hands a bit and rub them over the balls first. Sanding joint compound get VERY dusty and the little bit of moisture helps with that...Otherwise I'd advise wearing a mask or something similar over your mouth and nose and sand them OUTSIDE! (Remember it's dusty-Don't wanna have to clean anymore than we have to right??)
THE SANDED ONES ARE ON THE LEFT

-Once they are sanded, dust them off. Lay some aluminum foil or parchment paper down on your work surface. Dump some Mica Flakes into a plastic bowl. Using a sponge brush, coat your ball with modgepodge then roll the ball in the mica flakes. I hold the bowl and "swirl" it around. Take it out and set it on your work surface to dry!


WAH-LAH...SNOWBALLS!!

Lots of uses for these...use the smaller balls to fill up a mason jar or put in with some wintertime potpourri or fixins. Decorate a sewing drawer or cheese box light, add to a wood bowl or basket with some greenery or pip berries. Set them on a shelf with some of your snowman collectibles! They are a great addition to your winter decorating!

Monday, October 17, 2005

ALL ABOUT CINNAMON DOUGH

CINNAMON DOUGH

It's getting close to Christmas!! (I can hear you all groaning now!) Seems like it comes earlier and earlier every year! There are lots of things I LOVE about the season though and one of the biggest is passing down traditions and starting our own with the kids!
One of our traditions is making handmade ornaments each year. The kids have come up with some fun ideas-like the year we took all those mismatched socks (Like the lost ones the washer eats!) and tea dyed them and hung them on the tree with mini clothes pins! We've done beading ornaments, paper ornaments, filled plastic ornaments, painted ornaments, but the one my kids love to do EVERY year is making cinnamon dough ornaments!!
There are TONS of recipes out there for this type of dough-I wanted to provide you with some links and some ideas for these, too! (Just a reminder-make sure you put a hole in the ornament before you bake or air dry them! We had lots of "bowls" of ornaments one year as we forgot that one step!)

This first recipe is one that I use quite a bit. For Christmas, we make some gingerbread ornies and put each one in a bag with a topper with the recipe and send them in with my kids for their classmates! Nothing better than passing a tradition on to another family!

GINGERBREAD DOUGH ORNAMENTS

3 TBS. SHORTENING 3/4 CUP WATER
1/2 CUP MOLASSES 3 1/2 CUPS FLOUR
1/2 CUP SUGAR 1 TSP. BAKING SODA
1 TSP EACH GROUND CLOVES, CINNAMON AND
GINGER
PREHEAT OVEN TO 350 DEGREES
BEAT SHORTENING AND SUGAR TOGETHER UNTIL LIGHT AND FLUFFY. STIR IN MOLASSES. SIFT THE DRY INGREDIENTS TOGETHER. STIR THEM INTO SHORTENING MIXTURE IN 3 PARTS ALTERNATING WITH A 1/4 CUP OF WATER EACH TIME. DOUGH WILL BE STIFF.
USE CINNAMON TO DUST COUNTERTOP AND ROLL OUT DOUGH TO ABOUT 1/4 INCH THICKNESS...USE COOKIE CUTTERS TO CUT OUT YOUR SHAPES. USE A STRAW TO POKE A HOLE FOR HANGING. COOK ON A COOKIE SHEET FOR 20 MIN. THEN TURN OFF OVEN AND LET COOL IN OVEN-YOU MAY NEED TO FLIP THESE A FEW TIMES. LET COOKIES AIR DRY FOR A DAY OR SO. YOU CAN PAINT THESE WITH ACRYLIC PAINT SEAL THE FRONT (SO YOU CAN STILL SMELL THE BACKS!) WITH MODGE PODGE OR POLYURETHANE SEALER OR (LET MOM OR DAD) DIP INTO MELTED CANDLE WAX TO SEAL AND SCENT.
*If you want a lighter colored gingerman, substitute LIGHT CORN SYRUP for the MOLASSES or go half and half. You can also use WHEAT FLOUR for a different look! If you want some PUFFY ornaments, substitute 1/2 the regular flour with self rising flour!

This second recipe is from Wendy at Simply Cute Crafts...She is in the process of adding more craft projects to her sight but check out her ADORABLE diaper cakes! www.simplycutediapercakes.com

2 Cups Flour
1 Cup Salt (I use Kosher for a coarser look)
1/2 Cup Cinnamon
1 TBS Corn Starch
3/4 to 1 Cup Warm Water
Fragrance Oil (Optional)

I sift all of the dry ingredients together and then add the warm water a little at a time until you get the right consistency. If it's too sticky - add a little more flour. If it's crumbly - add a little more water.
Knead for about 5-10 minutes until dough is smooth......if using Kosher salt it won't feel completely smooth. Then let is sit for about 30 minutes.....either in a zip loc bag or plastic container with a lid. You can let it sit on the counter top or the fridge. Then roll out to desired thickness 1/4 to 3/4 and start cookie cutting away or use a sharp knife and do them freehand.....that's how I do my stars, moons and kitties!
Now I let mine dry on a cookie sheet and flip them about twice a day. Now you can dry them in the oven at a low temp 150 degrees or air dry them.
It usually take about 3-4 days to air dry, but can take longer depending on the thickness of the ornie.
You can wax dip them or I use Modge Podge Glossy and Brush that all over them to give them a glossy waxy look.





Twigs of Twigs & Sprigs has a great recipe on her sight
http://twigs-n-sprigs.safeshopper.com/133/cat133.htm?981

Susan of Simple Kneads has a recipe on her sight but she also sells a mix that you just add wet ingredients to-check our her sight for TONS of great ideas and patterns!http://www.simplecountrypleasures.com/tipsnhints1.htm Susan's dough smells like cinnamon powder or sticks!

Rochelle from CinnaMinnies also sells her mix from her sight. She also sells kits that include her Cinnamon Clay, oil and a cookie cutter along with her tips and hints! Rochelle's dough is a SPICY cinnamon (think Red Hots)!!
http://www.cinna-minnies.com/

Here are links to some other recipes with some great ideas in there, too:
http://www.kidsdomain.com/craft/dough2.html
http://cookie.allrecipes.com/az/NonEdibleGingerbreadMen.asp
http://boards.hgtv.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/4004031632/m/5021081042
http://www.razzledazzlerecipes.com/christmasfun/kids.htm
http://www.recipegoldmine.com/crafts/crafts42.html

I like to use mini cookie cutters to cut out small versions of trees, hearts, stars, angels, gingers etc...and then I add them to potpourri or I put them in a mason jar! There are TONS of ideas that you can make besides ornaments!

Another dough that I like to use is Salt Dough. Here is a great site with a recipe and lots of ideas! http://www.multihobbies.com/saltdough/index.htm
You can vary this recipe by using wheat flour and adding cinnamon or ground cloves to it. I find that if I dissolve the salt in hot water first it helps it have a smoother texture! If you want puffier ornaments substitute half the regular flour with SELF RISING flour. You can use some modge podge or polyurethane to seal these or you can dip them in scented wax.

Wednesday, October 05, 2005

DOLL MAKING 101

Doll Making 101

The tools of the trade:
Sewing machine (obviously!) & sewing supplies (Quality thread, seam ripper, pins etc.)
Muslin
Fabric for dress, pantaloons, apron, slip etc....
Stuffing (and a pencil, chopstick, wooden spoon handle, dowel etc. help stuff)
Embroidery thread, yarn, wool etc. (for hair)
Doll making needle (I like the 5" ones-looks like a regular needle-just MUCH longer)
Buttons (for eyes or for decoration)
Barn Red paint or regular powder blush & a brush (for cheeks!)
Paint for shoes
Fine grain sand paper

OPTIONAL:
Kitty Litter, Poly Pellets etc. for weighting your dolls
Accessories-Flags, baskets, rusty keys, etc. to "customize" your doll
Candle Oil for scenting (see Recipe at end of article)
Turning Tubes or hemostats for turning
Tea or Coffee for staining


SOME THINGS TO REMEMBER:
*If you are not an experienced doll maker-buy some patterns! There are a TON of dollmakers out there who make easy to follow patterns that are chock full of diagrams and tips! This is a great way to learn shortcuts, to learn new techniques and to try different types of designs!
*Remember that you are just starting off...I am showing you a picture of my very first doll-no laughing now! 3 years later-I am designing my OWN dolls!


*Sewing dollies takes time-so TAKE YOUR TIME! I used to line my dolls up and make them assembly line fashion-suddenly the dolls started looking ALIKE! I wanted UNIQUE dolls so I started concentrating on doing one at a time!
*Some folks like their dolls to have a "theme"...Your fabric can inspire you-red, white & blue fabric for a patriotic doll, reproduction feed sacks for a mammy doll etc. Don't forget the accessories! A flag, a basket, an animal etc.
*When I first started out I used the cheapest Muslin that I could find-and that worked O.K.! Then I started trying different types and now I use the muslin that is already TeaStained. You can find this right next to the other muslin at Walmart or Joanns or other fabric stores. I use it because it has a tighter weave and doesn't unravel, tear or pucker as easily! It is the perfect shade for my ShabbyChic dolls but I can still stain it to make it even more prim and grubby!
*Here's a hint for epatterns...Print out the directions on regular paper but print out the pattern pieces on cardstock...Then you just have to cut them out and trace onto muslin!
*Every time that you trace a doll piece it gets BIGGER! I remember buying a doll made from one of my favorite designers and it was so much more petite than mine! But I was adding size by tracing around the original pattern pieces, then tracing that onto cardstock and then tracing the pieces onto the muslin! No wonder my doll looked like an amazon!
*You can use a variety of items for tracing your pieces-some use a mark-b-gone pen, colored pencils, carbon paper-I just use a regular No 2 pencil-slightly dull so it won't snag.

TEA OR COFFEE STAINING:
*Experiment to find the "recipe" that works for you. Remember that coffee will give a much darker look especially if you bake the doll in the oven. (Bake on the LOWEST setting for 10-15 minutes at a time-KEEP AN EYE ON THE DOLL or set the timer!)
*I usually stain a couple yards of muslin at a time but if you are going to stain your dolls individually make sure you do it before you put on the face or hair (the coffee or tea makes the hair stiff and will stain the color of the floss) and DO NOT put your doll in the oven if it has poly pellets or any other weighting material in it! Buttons may also melt in the oven!

PAINTING YOUR DOLLS:
You can use either black or brown (I like burnt umber) craft acrylic paints. You don't need to add a fabric medium to the paint. There is no need to paint the entire doll, as the clothes will cover much of it. Some folks do-some folks don't. Apply one to two coats, let dry and sand LIGHTLY using fine grain sandpaper.

ONTO THE DOLL MAKING...
*Lay your pattern pieces out on the muslin-arrange them so that you use the least amount of muslin but make sure you leave room around the pieces to cut! The traced lines will be your sew lines! Sew the pieces according to the directions-leaving open where indicated or on the fold. Some folks will double sew the neck for added stability to prevent against "blow-outs." Trim all seams to 1/4" or less-clipping your curves and corners. (you can also use pinking shears for this)
*Before you turn your body piece right side out, I recommend putting in a box seam to help your doll sit better. Match the bottom seam up with the side seam and sew across. Clip 1/4" from sew line.



*Turn all pieces right sides out-this is where the turning tubes or hemostats come in handy!
*Cut a slit through one layer of fabric on the body. If you are going to weight your doll pour in the poly pellets or use a snack size ziploc bag filled with kitty litter, sand, beans or whatever you use to weight your dolls. (The ziploc prevents moisture and bugs from invading your doll! Place stuffing around the bag and continue to stuff the body. Whipstitch the opening closed.



STUFFING
I like to use a wooden chopstick for stuffing my dolls...I spray the doll part lightly with warm water and use SMALL pieces of stuffing! Spraying with water will make the fabric shrink a bit and using small pieces of stuffing ensures smooth seams. Stuff only to where indicated on pattern. If your doll has a long narrow neck you can use a small dowel or chopstick to stabilize her neck. Push the chopstick up into her head and stuff around it. Make sure the chopstick extends into her chest.
*Once I have my pieces stuffed I like to paint the shoes before I attach the legs to the body. Follow the pattern diagrams. I let the paint dry and sand LIGHTLY with fine grain sandpaper. Some patterns have laces for the shoes-mark where the laces will go. I use 6 strands of embroidery floss or crochet thread.

THE FACE & HAIR
* I like to blush my doll's cheeks first-that way I won't get paint or blush all over the doll's nose and eyelashes. If you are using paint to blush the cheeks use a dry brush method. Put a small bit of paint on a paper plate and then dip a DRY stencil brush into it. Using a circular motion, dab it onto a paper towel until most of the paint is gone and it BARELY leaves a mark. Very lightly brush onto the doll's cheeks in a light back and forth motion. Remember, you can always add more but you can't take it off if you put on too much!
*I also like to do the face and hair before I attach the legs and arms. Following the pattern guidelines trace the face onto the muslin LIGHTLY. If you are using embroidery floss for the nose-use however many strands of floss the pattern indicates and your 5" doll needle. Tie a knot about 2" from the end of the floss and insert the needle in the back of the doll's neck (under the collar line) and come out at the bottom left corner of the nose. Take a stitch across the nose and back out the other side of the nose. Continue until you finish the nose and insert the needle back down THROUGH the head and out the back of the neck. Knot the threads and clip. If you are using embroidery thread for hair-this is a simple way of doing it. I like to use 6 strands. Take your needle from the front to the back on the head where indicated on pattern just below the seam, leaving a tail as long as you want the hair to be. Take the needle and go through the front of the head and back out the back, the same way you did the first time! Cut the thread the same length as the tail. Repeat until you have covered the head.

(I like to do the nose and hair before the face as it helps me to decide on the doll's expressions and size of the button's for eyes.) For the mouth, eyebrows, eyelashes and attaching the button eyes, I use one strand of black embroidery thread-tie a knot in the end like you did for the nose-enter from the back of the neck and come out on one side of the doll's smile. Backstitch the smile and on the last stitch go through the doll's head and out where one of the eyes will go. Attach the button and take the needle through the head to where the other eye will go. Attach that button coming out at the edge of the eyebrow. Take a stitch and come out where the other eyebrow begins and take a stitch. Going through the doll's head, come out where you'd like to have eyelashes. When you are finished with the eyelashes go through dollies head and out at the base of the neck. Tie off and clip. For dolls with big heads and/or long necks, I stitch HALF the mouth from the corner of the smile to the bottom. Then I do the eyes and eyebrows and lashes. I come down to the other outer corner of the mouth and stitch the last half of the smile and then back out the neck! It is a lot easier that way & you don't wind up scrunching the doll's head and neck trying to get that needle back out.

ATTACHING THE ARMS & LEGS
*To attach the arms and legs I fold the raw edge under 1/2" and whip stitch them onto the body where indicated. You don't have to fold under the raw edge-it is just the way I do it!



*Don't forget to sign your dolly! You can use a pigma pen (Found in the scrapbooking section) or a fine point sharpie. I sign my name, the doll's name and the date.

MAKING THE CLOTHES
*Follow the pattern pieces for making the clothes making sure to follow any instructions for doubled material or laying pieces on the fold.



Cut or Tear the skirt piece of the dress and sew a gathering or a running stitch about 1/4" away from one long edge. Gather the skirt and with right sides together match it to the bottom of the bodice. Pin & sew right above the gathering stitch



Once you have both sides done remove the gathering stitch if you can see it.
With right sides together, match the underarm seams and edges of dress and sew the bottom of the arm and down the sides of the skirt on both sides. Sew across the shoulder seams leaving open where indicated on your pattern-or if you have cut on the fold-clip an opening for the head.



*I like to put the doll's dress on feet first-especially if the doll has a big head!
*Sew a gathering or a running stitch around the neckline and around the cuffs of the arms and legs (if indicated in the pattern)


MAKING THE LOONS
A lot of patterns will not give you an actual pattern piece for pantaloons or a slip (underskirt). They will simply tell you how long and tall the piece of material should be and most will have directions or diagrams for how they should be sewn.
For loons cut a piece of material the length and width indicated in pattern.

Fold from left to right.
Sew the side about 1/4" from edge (green marking)



Move the seam to the middle



Sew up one side close to seam, across a few stitches and back down other side (Purple marking)


Clip between the stitching making sure to clip the corners



Turn loons right side out and sew a running/gathering stitch around waist (red thread)



Put them on your doll and cinch tight. You may want to tack the sides to the doll's body.

NOW JUST ADD ANY ACCESORIES YOU MAY HAVE AND YOU ARE DONE! CONGRATULATIONS!



Recipe for Doll Perfume
VERY EASY!
1 oz candle oil
3 oz distilled water
Put in a spray bottle and SHAKE well before each application
I have sprays that I made 2 years ago that still smell as strong as the day I made them. The spray bottles I use come from Michael's and are 4 oz clear plastic bottles with a white sprayer. I lightly mist the dolls when I am done and also before I ship them. The scent that gets the most compliments is CinnaBun. I wouldn't recommend any floral scents. Remember-a little bit goes a LONG way!